Mickey Z
Cool Observer
Tuesday, September 28, 2004
A Vegan in Astoria
New York Press just released its annual “Best of” issue and my snarky little essay made the cut...with some editing I’m not thrilled with, but hey…
Click “more” to read the “THE BEST SIGN OF GENTRIFICATION IN ASTORIA:
VEGAN DINING EXPLOSION.”
Whether we care to admit it or not, our humble neighborhood of Astoria is officially and irrefutably hip. Starbucks, yoga schools, one-bedroom apartments going for more than $1200 a month, a community garden, poetry readings, an organization called Astorians for Peace…
We valiantly tried to ignore the assorted symptoms of encroaching chicness until one signal came through loud and clear.
While strolling down Broadway (a Broadway sans regards), we came across a group of film students perfecting their craft. We were finally convinced. If those Jarmusch wannabes gathered the courage to venture outside of Washington Square Park for more than an hour, who were we not to accept reality? Astoria is a multi-culti enclave of off-the-boat immigrants, blue-collar Giuliani voters and cheap-rent gatecrashers. It’s gotten so that my wife wants us to have a t-shirt made up that reads “Born in Astoria,” so no one will mistake the intentions of my shaved head.
There are, however, some perks to living with the new fauxhemians. Prior to their arrival, eating vegan required a MetroCard. Sure, if we were willing to dodge the toxic clouds of smoke billowing from the incalculable souvlaki stands that dot our urban landscape, there was (and still is) falafel, hummus and babaganoush at the legendary Kebab Café, but real vegan dining in the old Astoria was more typically steamed vegetables at the local Chinese restaurant or begging the pizza man to leave off the cheese.
Then came the upwardly mobile.
We now have four health food stores within walking distance. The newest is Sai’s Organics (36-07 30th Ave. (betw. 36th & 37th Sts.), ), not more than a three-minute stroll from our somewhat reasonably priced one-bedroom (another perk of our pre-hip residential status). Organic coffee: check. Juice bar: check. Well-stocked organic produce section: check. And this is just the tip of the filtered-water iceberg at the popular Sai’s.
Food shopping is now a non-issue, but let’s say you’ve decided to indulge in a bargain matinee at Astoria’s massive Regal Cinemas multiplex or, better yet, catch a revival of Them at the American Museum of the Moving Image (AMMI). Where does a non-flesh-eating film fanatic go for a post-movie meal?
There’s Cup (35-01 36th St. (betw. 36th & 37th Sts.), ), a cavernous new diner directly across the street from the AMMI. Think Arnold’s from Happy Days, but trade Joanie and Chachi for a wraparound bar and a portobello burger deluxe (and more than a few other veggie options). Open 24 hours with outdoor seating, at Cup it’s no meat, no cheese, no problem for vegans who yearn for that authentic diner experience.
In the mood to go ethical and ethnic? J.J.’s Grand Tofu (37-05 31st Ave. (37th St.), ) was once nothing more than a particularly good take-out joint paradoxically owned and operated by a gourmet chef. In the new post-modern Astoria, that chef has indulged her inner Emeril by reinventing her place as something called a “fusion” restaurant with, of course, a plethora of meat- and dairy-free items on the eclectic menu. Suggestion: Go with the sesame tofu and broccoli. Potato spring rolls are your appetizer, with glazed eggplant a close second.
A few blocks from all the fusion action is Thai Angel Kitchen (34-11 30th Ave. (betw. 34th & 35th Sts.), ), home of vegetarian duck tamarind, which has won over even our most ardent flesh-consuming friends. The only problem here is making sure you get the right meal. The staff at Thai Angel is well-meaning but easily confused. Be prepared to try ordering “Vegetarian Duck Spice” to get your tamarind, and it doesn’t hurt to slowly repeat the word “vegetarian” a few times throughout the ordering process to make sure no ducks are injured during the making of your dinner.
For those hungry greenies craving downtown cool along with a little of the Greek flavor Astoria was once known for, Astoria offers Cafe Bar (32-90 36th St. (34th Ave.), ). Big, comfy couches, cigarette smoke wafting around the outdoor tables and a touch of European pretentiousness are always in abundance, but any place with something actually called a “vegan sandwich” on their menu makes it simple to overlook the au courant overkill. Internet access doesn’t hurt either.
Long before Astoria opened its arms to the likes of Victoria’s Secret, New York Sports Club and Kinko’s, finding a decent bagel was not difficult, but we have gentrification to thank for the all-new and addictive whole-wheat everything bagel with vegetable tofu cream cheese at Brooklyn Bagel & Coffee Company (35-05 B’way (betw. 35th & 36th Sts.), ). It is an irresistible masterpiece of guilt-free indulgence. Get there early on weekends though: The competition for tables between old-country Astoria natives and the new trendy interlopers can take on a roller-derby-like quality without warning.
Copyright © 2005-2007 Mickey Z.
